Rather than stubbing out the access_log, make it actually log the requests,
which makes it a lot more obvious what is going on during tests.

Rate-limit outgoing read-receipts as per #4730.

turns out this relies on there being a `user_consent_version` set.

Rather than using a Mock for the homeserver config, use a genuine
HomeServerConfig object. This makes for a more realistic test, and means that
we don't have to keep remembering to add things to the mock config every time
we add a new config setting.

Make sure that we have a `server_notices_mxid` set, given that we are relying
on it.

* Set allow_guest_access = True, since we rely on it
* config doesn't have a `hostname` attribute; it is `server_name`

The Mailer expects the config object to have `email_smtp_pass` and
`email_riot_base_url` attributes (and it won't by default, because the default
config impl doesn't set any of the attributes unless email_enable_notifs is
set).

Fixes a bug where hs_disabled_message was not enforced for 3pid-based requests
if there was no server_notices_mxid configured.

Add two ratelimiters on login (per-IP address and per-userID).

This reverts commit 290552fd.

Server side of a solution towards #3622.